I am always working out, whether I am on vacation or at home. When in La Jolla, I like to surf, play tennis, and golf - but surfing is definitely my favorite.
There's something suspicious about saying, 'I'm just going to leave my child alone and let her pursue her passions.' You know what? I think most 13-year-olds' passion is sitting in front of the TV, or doing Facebook, or surfing the Internet for hours.
To be clear, I worry as much about the impact of the Internet as anyone else. I worry about shortening attention spans, the physical cost of sedentary 'surfing' and the potential for coarsening discourse as millions of web pages compete for attention by appealing to our base instincts.
I've been surfing several times, and I'm terrible at it. But what I found was that you're usually waiting on the board, hanging out, watching the waves come in. And one that you think is a big wave is not actually one.
I love going to the beach in the tropics and doing whatever I do - surfing, swimming or being - and the glow when I get a tan that deepens. I walk around with red and gold in my skin and feel like the most beautiful thing on the planet!
People send you stuff if you say you're interested in something. I have a tonne of body lotion. So I could mention I was interested in, you know, surfing, and some company would send me a surfboard.
I got really into surfing, and that was my life from when I was 10 years old to 18. I surfed almost every day, and it was all I cared about - I was a sand-in-the-bed, total beach bum.
I have to be careful with surfing. It's still an addiction to me. It's all I want to do, and that's the big dilemma I have with it.
The experience of seeing a surf movie in the 1970s, as a teenager, and the energy in those theatres, was amazing. It was the only way to see people surfing. These guys would go out and make these surf movies and bring them to four-wall theatres. It was an incredible experience that I'll never forget.
I've been asked to do surfing movies over the years and offered several opportunities. I just felt that if I were to do one, I'd have to do the perfect surfing movie. And I don't know if that exists because surfing is such a personal thing.
