Fresh snow is amazing. The board is real different... it floats on the powder and goes really fast. If you're riding a long board, it's more like surfing than skiing.
In my 20s, I was body surfing in Spain and the current dragged me out. I was waving at my friends who thought I was messing about, but I was drowning. I managed to swim in on my back but it scarred me.
Surfing makes me happy, so that's just what I'm going to keep doing.
It's funny because looking back at my first contest, I was 15 and surfing the Haleiwa contest wearing this tiny bikini. I remember not even thinking twice about wearing it - I just thought it was normal.
I've been doing a lot of different cross-training and kickboxing and Capoeira and kite surfing, and I've just really been back to what I consider my original athletic self.
'Dirtbag' is just the term we use, like a 'gnarly dude' in surfing. Within the climbing culture, it means being a committed lifer: someone who has embraced a minimalist ethic in order to rock climb. It basically means you're a homeless person by choice.
Surfing is my great passion in Hawaii.
Surfing and trail running chill me out. I like reading, too. And playing my guitar - I wish I were better.
I go through phases of not liking the pretention and sycophantic nature of L.A. but I can be surfing in 10 minutes and snowboarding in two hours - I love the connection with nature.
I'm like the Ben Affleck of crowd surfing.
